Koshu Inden is a uniquely Japanese traditional craft with over 400 years of history from Yamanashi Prefecture, where patterns are applied to deerskin using lacquer.
The distinctive beauty created by the supple texture of leather and the glossy shine of lacquer combines both functionality and decorative appeal, captivating many craft collectors.
This article introduces the origins of Koshu Inden, its techniques, representative designs, and modern product developments in an easy-to-understand manner. Once you discover the world of Inden, where tradition and innovation merge, you’ll surely be drawn to its profound depth.
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What Makes Koshu Inden Special? The Unique Texture Created by Deerskin and Lacquer
Koshu Inden stands out among Japanese traditional crafts with its unique technique of applying lacquer to deerskin, achieving both beauty and practicality. Its delicate yet strong texture conforms to the user’s hands and deepens in character over time.
Naturally blending into modern fashion and lifestyle, and highly valued by designers and brands both domestically and internationally, we’ll introduce the charm of Koshu Inden from three perspectives: history, technique, and practical applications.
What is Inden? Definition and Origin of the Name
“Inden” refers to a uniquely Japanese leather craft where patterns are applied to deerskin using lacquer. Those produced in Yamanashi Prefecture are called “Koshu Inden” and are designated as traditional Japanese crafts by the government.
The term originates from “Indo Denrai” (imported from India), named after the decorative leather brought to Japan through Nanban trade in the early Edo period. The leather at that time was dyed red or black with patterns applied, making it a luxurious decorative item. Japanese craftsmen, influenced by this, developed it independently to suit Japanese culture and environment, marking the beginning of Inden.
Since the Edo period, Koshu Inden has been used for samurai decorative items (armor and weapon pouches), earning high acclaim as both practical items and artistic crafts. Today, it has evolved into everyday products such as wallets, business card holders, drawstring purses, and bags, beloved by many. One of Inden’s charms is maintaining tradition while adapting to new designs and uses.
The Practicality of “Lacquered Leather” That Even Overseas Brands Notice
The greatest characteristic of Koshu Inden lies in the unique texture created by the suppleness of deerskin and the decorative lacquer. Deerskin has fine, soft fibers while being resistant to tearing and extremely lightweight. This makes it less tiring to carry for long periods, and its gentle touch makes it ideal for items that contact the skin, such as wallets and pouches.
Adding Japanese lacquer dramatically improves both design appeal and durability. Lacquer repels water and oil, making it resistant to dirt and degradation even with prolonged use. Additionally, the beautiful gloss and depth of lacquer’s luster evokes the character of natural materials, allowing you to enjoy subtle variations in appearance even with the same pattern.
Due to this high level of technical skill and aesthetic sensibility, Koshu Inden has recently attracted attention from overseas luxury brands and designers. As a material that combines the high quality and beauty of Japanese traditional crafts, it is increasingly being incorporated into material partnerships and joint projects with luxury brands from Europe and Asia, earning high international recognition.
Wallets, Bags, Business Card Holders… How to Incorporate Them into Modern Life
Though a traditional craft, Koshu Inden seamlessly integrates into modern life thanks to its comfort and practicality. Particularly popular are small accessories like wallets, business card holders, and key cases. Their lightweight and durable nature makes them suitable for daily items, maintaining their shape even after extended use.
Recently, items suitable for business settings such as bags, briefcases, and tablet cases have also emerged, with their balance of design and functionality highly regarded. With a wide range of designs to choose from—modern geometric patterns or traditional motifs of animals and plants—the number of users is increasing regardless of age or gender.
Inden items are also popular as gifts, treasured for celebrations of longevity, job promotions, or Mother’s and Father’s Day presents. With both traditional craft value and high practicality, they are well-received as gifts that convey a special feeling. For those who want to subtly incorporate quality craftsmanship into daily life, Koshu Inden is an extremely attractive option.
History and Cultural Background of Koshu Inden: The Beauty of Deerskin and Lacquer Preserved for Over 400 Years
Koshu Inden is a leather craft that has been preserved for approximately 440 years, centered in Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, characterized by its unique technique of applying lacquer patterns to light and supple deerskin. The origin of the technique is said to date back to the late 16th century, derived from leather crafts for the Takeda family’s armor, but the “lacquering technique” that continues to the present day was systematized by the ancestors of the Uehara family during the Edo period. In 1987, it was designated as a traditional craft by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry, and its beauty and technique have received high acclaim both domestically and internationally.
From Takeda Family Armor Leather Crafts to Commoner Culture
The origin of Inden is said to have begun when Uehara Dekibei, who was a retainer of the Takeda family in the late Warring States period (1582), created armor with lacquer applied to deerskin. At that time, deerskin was preferred for decorating armor, hand guards, and shin guards due to its lightweight and sturdy nature. As the Edo period began, it became popular when stylish commoners used it for drawstring purses and tobacco pouches, establishing Inden as both a practical item and a fashionable accessory.
Technical Innovation and Name Inheritance by the Uehara Yuushichi Family
The Uehara family, with the trade name Inden, has had each family head inherit the name “Yuushichi” and preserved the technique through single-heir transmission. In the late Edo period, they devised techniques such as “Jiwari Inden,” where lacquer is applied to the entire deerskin surface and rubbed to create crackle patterns, expanding the range of expression with various patterns and colors. These improvements enhanced quality and design, developing Inden beyond armor to everyday items such as wallets, tobacco pouches, and saido (money pouches).
Post-War Recovery and Leap to the Global Market
After World War II, Koshu Inden experienced a temporary decline in demand along with traditional crafts in general, but it recovered with the high economic growth period. Inden-ya Uehara Yuushichi exhibited at overseas exhibitions from the 1980s onward, launching “INDEN NEW YORK” for overseas markets in 2011 and “INDEN EST. 1582” in 2016. Furthermore, collaborations with British Asprey and Gucci have drawn attention to products that merge traditional techniques with luxury brands. Opportunities for global enthusiasts to experience Koshu Inden have also expanded through online sales and social media.
Thus, Koshu Inden has evolved from Warring States/Edo period armor culture, was refined through commoner culture, and developed to gain international recognition after the war. It can be said that the passion of craftsmen who continue to preserve tradition while pursuing technical innovation and design development has supported Koshu Inden for over 400 years.
Materials and Manufacturing Process: The Complete Process from Deerskin Selection to Lacquer Application
Koshu Inden is a uniquely Japanese leather craft where patterns are applied to deerskin using lacquer. Its production requires an eye for discerning the character of natural materials and the delicate skills of craftsmen. Here, we introduce the complete process of creating Inden, based on the traditional techniques passed down by Inden-ya. By understanding the charm of leather crafts, you will gain a deeper appreciation for the value of Inden.
1. Deerskin Selection and Tanning: The Foundation of Durability and Flexibility
Koshu Inden making begins with carefully selected deerskin. Compared to cowhide, deerskin has finer fibers, is lightweight and breathable, while being supple and resistant to tearing.
After selection, the leather undergoes degreasing and washing, followed by tanning with vegetable tannins or synthetic tanning agents. This tightens the fibers, creating flexibility and strength that prevents cracking even when lacquer is applied. The grain surface (leather epidermis) is thinly shaved to improve lacquer adhesion, and only those that meet strict standards for dyeability and elasticity proceed to the next stage.
2. Smoking Process: Deep Color Tones Created by Smoke
Inden-ya also preserves the “smoking” technique that gives deerskin a unique texture and color. This technique involves rolling the leather into a drum shape and smoking it with straw smoke to dye it in natural colors. It was established as a tanning and dyeing method in the Nara period. In the 16th century, there are records showing the missionary Luis Frois was amazed by this advanced coloring technique.
This smoking process creates a simple, warm leather texture that gives certain Inden products their character. However, it is not used for all Inden products but is a traditional and limited process selected according to patterns and uses.
3. Stencils and Pattern Application: Painting Japanese Beauty with Lacquer
Once the leather is prepared, the process moves to the lacquer application step to create patterns. Traditional crafts called “Ise stencils” are used—Mino washi paper strengthened with persimmon tannin and hand-carved with intricate patterns. Many auspicious Japanese patterns such as hemp leaf, checkered, and tortoiseshell designs have been preserved.
Patterns are transferred by placing the stencil on the leather and using a technique called “suri-urushi” (lacquer rubbing), where craftsmen rub in lacquer with a spatula. Subtle differences in lacquer viscosity, room temperature, and rubbing pressure affect the finish, requiring expertise that is said to take “three years to master lacquer application.”
In recent years, laser-processed stencils and experimental roll printing technologies have been partially introduced to protect stencils and improve reproducibility.
4. Drying and Finishing: Setting the Lacquer and Bringing Out Beauty
Leather with lacquer-applied patterns is naturally dried over several days in a drying room called “muro” with controlled temperature and humidity. During this process, the lacquer hardens, creating a distinctive gloss and texture.
After drying, the surface is carefully inspected for unevenness or scratches, with repairs or light polishing performed as needed. Finally, a “polishing” finish is applied before proceeding to cutting and sewing according to the intended use. For products such as wallets and business card holders, careful attention is paid to the direction of lacquer patterns and consistency of steps, resulting in a high-quality finish.
A “Craft That Matures with Time” Created by Handwork and Natural Materials
The completed Koshu Inden products are unique crafts that “grow as they are used.” The softness of deerskin and the gloss of lacquer deepen over time, conforming to the owner’s hands. Inden, where nature’s gifts and craftsmen’s skills merge, is an exquisite piece that conveys the essence of Japanese traditional crafts to the present day.
Three Points to Note When Purchasing Koshu Inden
Koshu Inden is a uniquely Japanese leather craft where patterns are applied to deerskin using lacquer, and its production process requires advanced techniques and craftsman expertise. Each step of the process, from material selection to pattern application and final finishing, directly affects the beauty and durability of the finished product.
Here, we will introduce in detail the entire process of how Inden products are created. By learning about the charm of leather crafts, you will gain a deeper understanding of the value of Inden.
How to Read the “Traditional Mark” and Certificate of the Koshu Inden Cooperative
To confirm the quality and authenticity of Koshu Inden, it’s important to check the “Traditional Mark” and “Traditional Certificate” attached to the product. These indicate that the item is a traditional craft designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry, guaranteeing the product’s reliability.
The “Traditional Mark” combines the character “den” (tradition) with a red circle representing the Japanese spirit, designed by renowned designer Yusaku Kamekura. The “Traditional Certificate” clearly states “Traditional Craft Designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry,” the name of the traditional craft, and the name of the specific manufacturing cooperative.
These displays are meant to ensure consumers can purchase traditional crafts with confidence and serve as a means to confirm product authenticity.
Quality Assessment Based on Lacquer Raised Patterns and Stencil Precision
When determining the quality of Koshu Inden, the evenness of lacquer application and stencil precision are important points. By checking whether lacquer is evenly raised and patterns are clear, you can judge the craftsman’s skill level and product quality.
Also, higher stencil precision often results in beautifully finished details, indicating a higher level of product completion. By paying attention to these points, you can select high-quality Koshu Inden.
Established Workshops, Official Online Stores, and Auction Market Prices
When purchasing Koshu Inden, it’s important to choose reliable sellers. Established workshops and official online stores offer quality-guaranteed products that can be purchased with confidence.
On the other hand, auction sites and flea market apps may offer lower prices, but there’s a possibility of counterfeit or lower-quality products, so caution is needed. Before purchasing, it’s essential to confirm the seller’s reliability and detailed product information to make a satisfactory choice.
Maintenance and Preservation Methods for Koshu Inden
Koshu Inden is a traditional Japanese craft where patterns are applied to deerskin using lacquer, and proper maintenance and preservation are essential to maintain its beauty and durability for a long time. Below, we introduce specific methods for keeping Inden products in good condition.
Storage Environment to Prevent Lacquer Cracking from Humidity and UV Light
When storing Inden products, it’s important to avoid the effects of humidity and ultraviolet light. Mold is likely to develop in high-humidity environments, and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight or strong lighting can cause the lacquer to lose its luster or develop cracks.
Therefore, it’s recommended to store products wrapped in breathable materials such as non-woven fabric in a well-ventilated place. Regularly opening the storage box to allow air circulation is also effective in preventing product deterioration.
Daily Care: Tips for Soft Cloth and Temperature Management
For daily care, lightly wiping with a soft cloth is basic. If dirt adheres, lightly brushing the entire leather surface uniformly can remove dirt while preventing partial raising of the nap.
When wet, it’s important to remove moisture by lightly patting with a dry cloth and drying in the shade in a well-ventilated place, avoiding direct sunlight. When using waterproofing spray, it’s recommended to choose one specifically for napped materials and test it on an inconspicuous area before use.
Professional Repair Services for Peeling Lacquer and Leather Cracks
Even if lacquer peeling or leather cracking occurs after years of use, it’s possible to restore the product to its former beauty through specialized repair services. For example, specialty stores like Inden-ya offer repairs according to the product’s condition, and consultations for repairs are possible even for old products or those with inspection marks removed, as long as they can be confirmed as their company’s products. Repair content and costs can be estimated in advance.
By practicing these maintenance and preservation methods, you can maintain the beauty and functionality of Koshu Inden for a long time. Take care of your precious traditional craft items daily to enjoy them for many years.
Summary
Koshu Inden is a Japanese traditional craft with over 400 years of history, with its greatest charm being the unique texture created by deerskin and lacquer. Its production process involves the hands of many craftsmen and advanced techniques, from selecting deerskin to lacquer application, pattern stenciling, drying, and finishing.
When purchasing, it’s important to check for the “Traditional Mark” and “Certificate” that prove it’s a traditional craft, understand how to assess quality such as lacquer raising and pattern precision, and choose reliable sellers. Furthermore, to enjoy Inden for a long time, careful maintenance is essential, including storage away from humidity and UV light, regular care with soft cloths, and utilizing professional repairs when needed.
Koshu Inden is not just a leather product but a “craft that grows while being used,” inhabited by long history and craftsmen’s techniques. Please experience its charm firsthand—how it accompanies daily life and increases in character with each passing year.
