Kurume Kasuri is a traditional Japanese cotton textile that originated in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture. With its rustic yet sophisticated kasuri patterns and texture that improves with use, it is beloved as “fabric that becomes more comfortable the more you wear it.” However, many people may not know what types are available or how to choose the right one.
This article explains in detail the history and characteristics of Kurume Kasuri, its varieties, and tips for enjoying it for many years.
Table of Contents
What is Kurume Kasuri
Kurume Kasuri is a traditional Japanese cotton textile that originated in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture. It features distinctive “kasuri patterns” and a soft texture that becomes more comfortable with use. It is widely used for kimono, samue work clothes, and as contemporary fashion items.
While Japan has various kasuri textiles, Kurume Kasuri stands out for its excellence in “hand-weaving,” “pre-dyeing,” and “kasuri pattern” techniques, earning it designation as an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Japan. Here, we will explain in detail the history and characteristics of Kurume Kasuri, as well as its differences from other kasuri textiles.
History and Origins of Kurume Kasuri
The history of Kurume Kasuri dates back about 200 years to the late Edo period. It began when a young girl named Den Inoue from Kurume Domain (present-day Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture) created a new cotton textile inspired by patterns on worn silk fabrics.
This technique received support from the domain and spread throughout the country. During the Meiji era, despite mechanization, traditional hand-weaving techniques were preserved. During the Showa era, it became established as one of “Japan’s three major kasuri fabrics” (Kurume Kasuri, Bingo Kasuri, and Iyo Kasuri).
In 1957 (Showa 32), it was designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Japan and is now highly valued both domestically and internationally as a traditional craft of Kurume.
Characteristics and Appeal
The greatest features of Kurume Kasuri are its distinctive “kasuri patterns” and the comfortable feel of cotton textile. Here is a summary of its specific attractions:
Kasuri Patterns Using Pre-dyed Yarn
The distinctive patterns are created by dyeing the yarn before weaving. Handmade pieces especially showcase unique expressions that highlight the craftsman’s skill.
Durable and Long-lasting
Although made of cotton, it is highly durable and becomes softer and more comfortable with washing. The texture improves the longer it is used, becoming a cherished piece.
Excellent Breathability and Moisture Absorption
Kurume Kasuri offers excellent breathability and moisture absorption, making it suitable for Japan’s humid climate. It keeps you cool in summer and provides appropriate warmth in winter, allowing for comfortable wear throughout the year.
Diverse Designs
It offers a wide range of variations from traditional geometric patterns to modern contemporary designs. In recent years, it has been incorporated into fashion items and interior decor.
Due to these characteristics, Kurume Kasuri is widely used not only for everyday and casual wear but also for fashion items and interior decor.
Reference: About Kurume Kasuri
Differences from Other Kasuri Textiles
Japan has three major kasuri textiles: “Kurume Kasuri,” “Bingo Kasuri,” and “Iyo Kasuri,” each with different characteristics.
Kurume Kasuri (Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture)
Kurume Kasuri is available in both hand-woven and machine-woven varieties and is characterized by its durability and good texture. It features many geometric patterns and includes both traditional and modern designs. Its practicality for everyday wear is also appealing.
Bingo Kasuri (Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture)
Bingo Kasuri was initially hand-woven, but machine weaving was introduced during the Meiji era, enabling mass production. It primarily uses indigo dye and features simple patterns. It is often sold at relatively reasonable prices and is appreciated as a practical textile.
Iyo Kasuri (Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture)
Iyo Kasuri is characterized by its detailed and intricate patterns and has traditionally been produced for kimono. Recently, it has been increasingly used for clothing and accessories, with elegant designs primarily featuring indigo dyeing.
Among these three major kasuri textiles, Kurume Kasuri particularly stands out for its comfort and durability, making it popular for everyday wear and fashion items.
Kurume Kasuri Production Process
Kurume Kasuri is a traditional textile in which all processes are performed by hand. There are many steps involved in tying and dyeing the yarn and weaving it, each filled with artisanal techniques.
In particular, tying and dyeing the yarn requires advanced skills, and it can take several months to complete the weaving. Here, we will explain in detail the materials and tools used for Kurume Kasuri, as well as the production process.
Materials and Tools Used
Kurume Kasuri is made using natural materials and traditional tools by skilled craftsmen.
Main Materials
- Cotton yarn: The main material for Kurume Kasuri, durable with excellent moisture absorption and good texture
- Indigo: A traditional dye that creates deep indigo-dyed shades characteristic of the fabric
- Chemical dyes: In recent years, chemical dyes are also used in combination to produce a variety of colors
Main Tools
- Tying frame (Kukuridai): A tool used for binding the yarn, a crucial process that determines the quality of the finished textile
- Dyeing vat (Senshoku-oke): A vat for dyeing yarn; for indigo dyeing, fermented indigo liquid is used
- Loom (Oribata): A tool for weaving yarn; hand looms (takahata) are used
These materials and tools create the distinctive texture of Kurume Kasuri.
The Process of Tying, Dyeing, and Weaving Yarn
In Kurume Kasuri production, craftsmen carefully perform each process from preparing the yarn to weaving. Each step embodies unique techniques and traditions.
Yarn Tying (Kukuri)
Tying involves bundling cotton yarn according to the pattern design and applying a resist treatment. These resist-treated sections create the distinctive “kasuri patterns” after dyeing. The precision of the tying determines the quality of the Kurume Kasuri, and craftsmen perform this work carefully one by one.
Dyeing (Indigo Dyeing and Chemical Dyes)
The tied yarn is immersed in dye and repeatedly dyed to create deep coloration. Traditional Kurume Kasuri primarily uses natural indigo dyeing, but in modern times, chemical dyes are also used to express more diverse colors. In the dyeing process, the yarn is repeatedly dyed and dried to increase color depth.
Weaving (Hand Weaving and Machine Weaving)
The dyed yarn is set on a loom and woven while precisely aligning the pattern positions. Traditional Kurume Kasuri often uses hand looms (takahata), with skilled craftsmen carefully proceeding. For hand weaving, it can take about two weeks to weave one tan (approximately 12 meters) of fabric. In recent years, machine weaving has been introduced, enabling more efficient production.
Through these complex processes of “tying,” “dyeing,” and “weaving,” Kurume Kasuri’s beautiful patterns and distinctive texture are created. The meticulous handiwork of craftsmen continues to be passed down to this day.
Types and Designs of Kurume Kasuri
While preserving traditional patterns, Kurume Kasuri has also evolved with new designs over time and is used for a wide range of purposes. Traditional kasuri patterns each carry meaning and have been cherished as auspicious designs.
In modern times, contemporary designs of Kurume Kasuri have also emerged and are incorporated into various items such as clothing, accessories, and interior decor. Here, we will explain in detail the meanings of traditional patterns, new designs of Kurume Kasuri, and its use as fashion items.
Traditional Patterns and Their Meanings
Kurume Kasuri features various patterns that have been passed down through generations, each with its own meaning.
Cross Kasuri (Juuji)
A pattern creating cross motifs through yarn intersections, symbolizing protection against evil and misfortune.
Well Frame (Igeta)
A pattern inspired by well frames, symbolizing “family prosperity” and “flourishing.”
Tortoise Shell (Kikkou)
A hexagonal pattern resembling a tortoise shell, symbolizing wishes for longevity and health.
Checkered (Ichimatsu)
A type of lattice pattern with alternating squares or rectangles of different colors. Due to its evolution over time, it is interpreted as a “pattern of success.”
These patterns are created by craftsmen tying and dyeing yarn, providing the warmth unique to handmade items.
New Designs of Modern Kurume Kasuri
While preserving traditional patterns, new designs of Kurume Kasuri suited to contemporary lifestyles have emerged. The fusion of craftsmen’s techniques and designers’ ideas has enabled its use for a wider range of purposes.
Simple Geometric Patterns
These are arrangements of traditional Kurume Kasuri geometric patterns into modern, simple designs. Not too flashy and with a refined impression, they are suitable for clothing and accessories, making them easy to incorporate into everyday fashion.
Diversification of Color Variations
Traditional Kurume Kasuri primarily used indigo dyeing, but in recent years, various colors such as gray, beige, and red have been adopted. This has increased more casual and contemporary designs that suit modern sensibilities, allowing for wider use in fashion and interior decor.
Highly Artistic Designs
Through collaboration between craftsmen and designers, abstract patterns and bold, large designs have increased. These have renewed the image of traditional Kurume Kasuri and have gained attention as unique fabrics resembling art pieces.
Stripes and Check Patterns
In addition to traditional kasuri patterns, Kurume Kasuri with stripes and check patterns that coordinate well with Western clothing has also become popular. These are suitable for casual clothing and interior accessories and are loved by a wider range of generations.
In this way, Kurume Kasuri continues to evolve while preserving tradition and is being reevaluated as a new design that blends into contemporary living.
Kurume Kasuri Fashion Items
In recent years, Kurume Kasuri has been widely used for Western clothing and accessories, gaining popularity beyond traditional crafts. Below are examples of fashion items using Kurume Kasuri.
- Shirts and dresses
- Pants and skirts
- Stoles and scarves
- Bags and pouches
- Hats and masks
In this way, Kurume Kasuri is incorporated into fashion and lifestyle in new forms while preserving tradition. Designs suitable for everyday use have increased, and it is expected to be loved by an even wider range of generations in the future.
The Appeal and Value of Kurume Kasuri
Kurume Kasuri is a traditional Japanese textile that is simple yet has a deep flavor. Its appeal lies not only in its comfort and practicality but also in its artistic value created by artisanal handwork.
The softness and breathability of cotton materials make it comfortable for everyday wear, and its texture improves with washing. It is also durable and long-lasting, allowing for years of use. Furthermore, its evaluation as a traditional craft has improved, and in recent years, its value as an art piece has been reconsidered. Here, we will explain in detail the value of Kurume Kasuri.
Comfort as Everyday Clothing
Kurume Kasuri excels in comfort as everyday clothing and is widely used for regular clothes, samue work clothes, and loungewear. The following characteristics in particular enhance the popularity of Kurume Kasuri:
Natural Feel of 100% Cotton
Kurume Kasuri is made entirely of cotton materials and is known for its pleasant texture.
High Breathability and Moisture Absorption
Due to the properties of cotton material, it offers good breathability, keeping you cool in summer, and provides warmth, making it suitable for winter as well.
Lightweight and Easy to Move In
Kurume Kasuri fabric is lightweight and easy to move in, making it less tiring to wear for extended periods.
In this way, Kurume Kasuri is ideal for those seeking a relaxed fit and is popular as everyday clothing.
Durability and Lasting Practicality of Kurume Kasuri
Kurume Kasuri is a durable fabric woven using traditional techniques and excels in durability. For this reason, it is widely used as everyday clothing and work clothes.
Texture Improves with Washing
Kurume Kasuri becomes softer and more comfortable with use. The properties of 100% cotton material cause the fabric to become more comfortable as it is worn and washed repeatedly.
Resistant to Friction
Kurume Kasuri uses thick cotton yarn and is resistant to friction, making it less likely to fray even after long periods of wear. For this reason, it is favored for clothing worn daily and work clothes such as samue and aprons.
Resistant to Wrinkles
The fabric of Kurume Kasuri, woven in high density with fine cotton yarn, has a glossy appearance and is resistant to wrinkles. This makes it easy to handle daily with less need for ironing, which is another of its appealing features.
In this way, Kurume Kasuri is a textile that excels in durability and practicality, characterized by its ability to be cherished for a long time. It is also gaining attention as an eco-friendly fashion item that reduces waste by lasting longer.
Value as a Craft and Art
Kurume Kasuri holds value as a craft produced through traditional techniques and also possesses artistic appeal. Below are its characteristics:
All Processes are Handcrafted
The production process of Kurume Kasuri involves all steps—tying, dyeing, and weaving—being performed by artisans’ handwork. This handwork gives the fabric a unique texture and warmth, increasing its value as a craft and art piece created by skilled artisans.
Different Texture in Each Piece
Subtle differences characteristic of handwork appear in each product, giving each piece a different expression even with the same pattern. This enhances its value as a unique item.
Fusion with Contemporary Art
In recent years, Kurume Kasuri has seen collaborations with artists, showing a fusion of tradition and contemporary art. For example, there has been an initiative to create and sell original design shochu bottles through collaboration between Kurume Kasuri, a traditional craft of Fukuoka Prefecture, and artist WOK22.
Kurume Kasuri is also sometimes exhibited in museums and galleries, increasing its value as an artistic work beyond the framework of traditional crafts. Furthermore, fashion designers and interior designers are incorporating Kurume Kasuri, giving rise to new expressions.
In this way, Kurume Kasuri can be said to be a special textile that combines comfort and practicality as everyday clothing with the beauty and artistic nature of a craft.
Care and Storage Methods for Kurume Kasuri
Kurume Kasuri is made of 100% cotton natural material and can be cherished for a long time with proper care. In particular, by paying attention to washing and storage methods, you can wear it while enjoying its aging process without damaging its color and texture.
Here, we will explain in detail home washing and maintenance, as well as tips for long-term storage.
Home Washing and Maintenance
Kurume Kasuri can basically be washed at home, but it is important to handle it gently to avoid damaging the fabric. By using appropriate care methods, you can maintain its texture and enjoy it for a long time.
Hand Washing is Recommended
As Kurume Kasuri is a delicate textile, hand washing is recommended whenever possible. Using a small amount of neutral detergent, gently press-wash it in water or lukewarm water to help the fabric last longer. Be careful not to rub it strongly as this can damage the fibers.
When Using a Washing Machine
When washing in a machine, place it in a laundry net and select the “gentle cycle” or “hand wash course” to reduce damage to the fabric. It is recommended to wash it separately as it may transfer color to other clothes when washed together.
Rinsing and Spinning
It is important to rinse thoroughly to ensure no detergent remains. Spin for a short time (about 2 minutes) and just lightly remove the water to reduce wrinkles. Strong spinning can damage the fabric, so be careful.
Drying Method
It is ideal to dry in a well-ventilated shade, avoiding direct sunlight. By hanging it in shape, you can prevent wrinkles and maintain its beautiful condition.
Ironing
If wrinkles are a concern, iron at medium temperature with a pressing cloth for a neat finish. Be careful with temperature management as excessive heat can damage the fabric.
By using appropriate care methods, you can maintain the texture and quality of Kurume Kasuri for a long time.
Tips for Long-Term Storage
When storing Kurume Kasuri for long periods, it is important to prevent moisture and insect damage and preserve its texture. Below is an explanation of appropriate storage methods in list format:
Always Wash Before Storage
Sweat and dirt left on the fabric can cause discoloration and stains, so always wash before storing. Also, make sure it is completely dry before folding to prevent mold and odors.
Store in a Well-Ventilated Place
It is important to store in a place with low humidity. Ideally, use a paulownia chest or well-ventilated paper box.
Take Measures Against Moths
Instead of chemical moth repellents, using natural “moth repellent sheets” or “cedar chips” can provide moth protection while minimizing impact on the fabric. It is important to ensure these do not directly contact the fabric and to replace them periodically.
Occasionally Air Dry in the Shade
Airing in a well-ventilated shade once every few months can help prevent moisture and prolong the life of the fabric. Always dry in the shade as direct sunlight can cause fading.
By being mindful of proper washing and storage, you can enjoy beautiful Kurume Kasuri for a long time.
Summary
Kurume Kasuri is a traditional Japanese textile with over 200 years of history, characterized by its unique kasuri patterns and excellent comfort. Beyond its practicality as everyday clothing, it holds high value as a craft and is expanding into new fields such as Western clothing, interior design, and international markets.
However, it also faces challenges such as a shortage of successors and market contraction, requiring the development of artisans and strengthened promotion. By preserving tradition while adapting to contemporary lifestyles, the appeal of Kurume Kasuri will continue to expand.
Kurume Kasuri is not merely a textile but a special entity filled with Japanese craftsmanship and culture. Please take the opportunity to touch it and feel its charm firsthand.
